Dierks rear side anchor mount for Aluminum Drift boat help

[ThousandsOfCasts]

Hey guys, I picked one of these up today as it will be needed on my DB. I was wondering if anyone has one like this? It attaches to the rear port side of the DB...er I hope I remember my port from starboard. So I have an idea how we will be attaching it, but would like to know if anyone would be so kind as to chime in or better yet post a few close up picks that shows how theirs is attached. I'm specifically interested in what size bolts you used. I'm thinking some good stainless steel hardware would be good, do you think that would have any adverse effect on aluminum?

Thanks,
Steve

[Shortbus]

Get good stainless steel 1/4 or 3/8" grade 5 bolts with lock nylon washersin the nut

BUT, if your not going to use a motor I'm the drifter, I would honestly use a center mount guide as the side release will make the boat sway when anchored.

[ThousandsOfCasts]

Thanks. This boat was setup with a motor previously and I would like to keep the option. There is a notch in the back with an insert for when a motor is not on. I don't think it would be best to put an anchor system on the insert as it does not bolt on.

[Osmosis]

Mines on the starboard side, but otherwise sounds the same.
Shortbus nailed the hardware, you can throw a washer or two in the mix as well.

The downside of the side anchor mounts to me is that everytime you pull your anchor it spins the boat to the side - which makes for a sketchy moment here and there when you anchor in tight spots.

did it come with pulleys to run down the side or is your boat already rigged with them? also does it have a "hitchin board". Jam cleats are way more convenient than traditional cleats, something to keep in mind as it sounds like there may be a few more pieces to pick up.

[rebell]

Hate to argue with Alan or Shortbus, but if your boat is set up correctly you shouldnt have any problems.

First and foremost is how your oar blades are in the water. If there straight as they should be while on anchor, you will not have a problem.

Batteries in my camera are dead, I will take some pics in the morning and show you my setup. Personally, I wouldnt have it any other way.

[Osmosis]

I have the oar rites that came with my oars so they are always indexed straight when I let go of 'em. I dont sway when on anchor, but I seem to almost always swing the stern to port when pulling it up.

Mines just a little 16' widebottom alumaweld, so the shorter chine contact may have something to do with it. If you have a tip to keep me from swinging to the side I'm of course all ears, its a pita!

[RollinontheRvr]

I would put some kind of felt washer or dialectric grease between the stainless and the aluminum or you could be looking at a dialectric reaction from opposing metals. Not a big deal but it would be easy to avoid any issues that way.

[ThousandsOfCasts]

Mines on the starboard side, but otherwise sounds the same.
Shortbus nailed the hardware, you can throw a washer or two in the mix as well.

The downside of the side anchor mounts to me is that everytime you pull your anchor it spins the boat to the side - which makes for a sketchy moment here and there when you anchor in tight spots.

did it come with pulleys to run down the side or is your boat already rigged with them? also does it have a "hitchin board". Jam cleats are way more convenient than traditional cleats, something to keep in mind as it sounds like there may be a few more pieces to pick up.

Yep the pullys are already setup down the side of the boat. And yes it has a jam clear on the rowers seat. The only thing that was messed up was the rear anchor mount.

[ThousandsOfCasts]

Hate to argue with Alan or Shortbus, but if your boat is set up correctly you shouldnt have any problems.

First and foremost is how your oar blades are in the water. If there straight as they should be while on anchor, you will not have a problem.

Batteries in my camera are dead, I will take some pics in the morning and show you my setup. Personally, I wouldnt have it any other way.

Thanks Rusty. Anxiously awaiting your pictures. :-)

[ThousandsOfCasts]

I would put some kind of felt washer or dialectric grease between the stainless and the aluminum or you could be looking at a dialectric reaction from opposing metals. Not a big deal but it would be easy to avoid any issues that way.


Cool I will check into that. Good tip.

[Osmosis]

Research electrolysis and galvanic corrision if you're interested in getting your boat dialed in that way. I did it for the sled, but not the driftboat.

[Osmosis]

http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu315/AlanGoeringGuideService/llklk002.jpg

http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu315/AlanGoeringGuideService/llklk001.jpg

[RollinontheRvr]

That mount looks like an aluminum unit so the concern would be the bolts. I would just get some dialectric grease and coat the shaft when you slide it through the bolt holes.

[Osmosis]

Dave, those bolts would just be one piece in a 1000 piece 3d puzzle :D.
for it to really matter you have to make a buffer between every single place on the boat where two dissimilar metals are touching or are close - be happy that it's not that critical with your shiny glass boat :D.
If you want to get serious: This also means things as simple as a swivel sitting in the gunnel or a weight with brass eye touching the boat anywhere, grounding the transom plug to a battery since the screw in the center can make a signal between the hull and it, ect. Never ground anything to your hull if you're running electronics of any kind, run them back to the battery.

Its a great way to burn up a weekend, or more, and to most people it isn't a true necessity.
If you plan to moore the boat in saltwater you should do this stuff, and if your boat is running "hot" (above 55 millivolts) it "could" (depending on which person you listen to) repel chinook.

When you get crazy about this, you start testing spinners as well since while under rotation a spinner is a battery (steel, nickel, brass, and bronze all in one place on the average casting spinner).

-Now back to the regularly scheduled program-

[ThousandsOfCasts]

Thanks guys. I think I wont worry too much about the differing metal types. Sounds like another thing to blame on me not catching fish. I appreciate everyones input on this forum. I'll pickup some bolts nuts and washers like Shortbus mentioned and I will mount it how Alan showed in his photos.

[RollinontheRvr]

Thanks guys. I think I wont worry too much about the differing metal types. Sounds like another thing to blame on me not catching fish. I appreciate everyones input on this forum. I'll pickup some bolts nuts and washers like Shortbus mentioned and I will mount it how Alan showed in his photos.



My thoughts were towards corrosion between opposing metals not chasing the fish away. Sorry I didn't make that clear to begin with.

[Arctic]

Since s.s. and aluminum dont "rust" they just oxidize, neither should affect the overall lifespan, or performance.

Galvanic corrosion is certainly important when constructing spinners and electrolysis is important when mooring in the salt...and if ya think fish dont feel the impulses from your aluminum boat. .id think again. The fish detect bait fish from hundreds of yards out.

[rebell]

My anchor bracket.

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p154/sykofish/anchorbracket003.jpg

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p154/sykofish/anchorbracket002.jpg

And the most important piece on the boat.

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p154/sykofish/anchorbracket001.jpg

You will always get a certain amount of swaying, especially in heavy current.

Also notice that I use a single pulley system. I have had alot of people try it and then set their boats up the same way. I dont like the side pulley system most people use, it takes a little getting used to, but it makes pulling your anchor alot easier.