custom heads.

[wfocharlie]

How do you guys make a loop when you cut a head to a custom length. I have never done this until now. I thinned the core covering with a razor blade so the loop wouldn't be too thick then welded a loop with a lighter, and wrapped it with a bobbin, a little zap a gap and finally some shrink wrap.
Is there a better or standard way to do this?

[Spade]

Chermanski's way of doing it. make the loop with about 1/4" length going along the fly line but cut at an angle to gradually get smaller and have a nice taper to the main line, then glue with super glue, after that put two nail knots with 8# line spaced 1/8" apart from each other with one of them forming the size of loop you want.

Did I make sense?

[Arctic]

Is there a better or standard way to do this?

Better... IMO, yes...Standard. There is no standard when you are talking custom building heads, or tips!


Buy yerself the Chinese finger trap type line-splices. Use your bobbin threder to pull a 1 1/4" lop thru one end. Check to make sure it wont slip, if it does, pull more mono braid thru itself. Then, thread it on your shaved down head. Most newer heads will be too thick, so you already have ther right idea by shaving it down. Nail knot the mono braid loop you just created, 3/8" from either end, and Aquaseal the knots only! Aquaseal is Urethane based, and wont breakdown. Ever! From there, Aquaseal the 1 1/4" of pure mono braid that your loop is made from to mimic the density of the head. If you Aquaseal the whole thing, down to the nail knots... you negate the Chinese finger trap properties the mono braid exhibits when tension is applied. It will never come undone, I promise. Make sure to absolutely bury those nail knots. I use 20lb. Its the only way to get them to fully seat. Trust me! Hahahaha!

Gabe, that is an awesome loop for quick, stillwater repairs, but I would say good luck swinging that. No offense dude! Dredging with a heavy tip, it'd prolly work just fine, but the lower the profile, the better when you attack a good drift, or tailout on the sink tip swing.

I learned this loop method, trout fishing the Kanektok with Jerry French years ago. Im sure there is a weird JF video series floating around someplace, with this demonstrated.

[wfocharlie]

Thanks Gabe. That makes sense but the skagit heads are really thick at the end so to just double it over and tie two nail knots you would have a really thick loop that I would worry about having it pass through the guides. That does look nice and stong.

Chermanski's way of doing it. make the loop with about 1/4" length going along the fly line but cut at an angle to gradually get smaller and have a nice taper to the main line, then glue with super glue, after that put two nail knots with 8# line spaced 1/8" apart from each other with one of them forming the size of loop you want.

Did I make sense?

[wfocharlie]

Ian thanks for the explanation but I'm still a little foggy. Do you have a photo of one you have done. I'm not sure what this chinese finger trap splicing thing is that you speak of. I try a google search.

Better... IMO, yes...Standard. There is no standard when you are talking custom building heads, or tips!


Buy yerself the Chinese finger trap type line-splices. Use your bobbin threder to pull a 1 1/4" lop thru one end. Check to make sure it wont slip, if it does, pull more mono braid thru itself. Then, thread it on your shaved down head. Most newer heads will be too thick, so you already have ther right idea by shaving it down. Nail knot the mono braid loop you just created, 3/8" from either end, and Aquaseal the knots only! Aquaseal is Urethane based, and wont breakdown. Ever! From there, Aquaseal the 1 1/4" of pure mono braid that your loop is made from to mimic the density of the head. If you Aquaseal the whole thing, down to the nail knots... you negate the Chinese finger trap properties the mono braid exhibits when tension is applied. It will never come undone, I promise. Make sure to absolutely bury those nail knots. I use 20lb. Its the only way to get them to fully seat. Trust me! Hahahaha!

Gabe, that is an awesome loop for quick, stillwater repairs, but I would say good luck swinging that. No offense dude! Dredging with a heavy tip, it'd prolly work just fine, but the lower the profile, the better when you attack a good drift, or tailout on the sink tip swing.

I learned this loop method, trout fishing the Kanektok with Jerry French years ago. Im sure there is a weird JF video series floating around someplace, with this demonstrated.

[Spade]

Ian is talking about slip on loop connectors. I don't like them.



http://stflyfisher.wordpress.com/200...er-combo-tool/

[Arctic]

Kind of. The ones I buy are just the Mono braid tubes. No loops. I make my own.

And, yeah... Nobody like these things. But its the only way I rig my heads, and tips anymore.

I am building a new head in the next few days for Summers, and when I do that one, I'll take some pics. But when it's all said and done, its deadly simple, low pro, and super strong!

[Spade]

Take pictures and make it a tutorial bro. I'll do one for mine since I need to put one on the end of my 3wt floater line.

[Chedster]

I just fold over the sink tip and use two nail knots with like 12lb mono, cinch those down good than coat them with aquaseal or uv knot sense. Quick and so far has worked great. Do the same on the leader end but use one nail knot and tie a loop in the tag end of the nail knot so you can loop on your leader.

[spactrukn]

Is there some reason why an albright or double albright knot would not work in this situation?