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Fix Your Broken Loop With This Method: Tutorial | how to tie the nail knot | Baking tips and tricks
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#Fix #Broken #Loop #Method #Tutorial
Fix Your Broken Loop With This Method: Tutorial
Brian Flechsig from Mad River Outfitters and the Midwest Fly Fishing Schools shows you how to tie a Nailless Nail Knot to fix the broken factory loop on your fly line. This method can be used to add a loop to ANY fly line or sink tip that doesn’t have a loop.
We’ve had alot of requests for this one a glad to finally get around to it.
Here is the chart for mathching stiffness and diameter of Maxima Clear with your fly line:
2wt-3wt- .013″ 12lb
4wt- .015″ 15lb
5wt-6wt- .017″ 20lb
7wt- .019″ 25lb
8wt-9wt- .022″ 30lb
10wt- .024″ 40lb
11wt-12wt- .026″ 50lb (Rio Saltwater)
* These may differ a bit depending on the manufacturer/taper/diameter of your line
Thanks for watching!
~
Subscribe for more fly fishing content:
Support the channel, pick something up from our shop:
Have a question about this video or anything fly fishing? We’re happy to help!
Send Mad River Outfitters an email or give us a call:
Email: admin@madriveroutfitters.com
Phone: 614-451-0363
Welcome to Mad River Outfitters, hosted by professional fly fishing guide, Brian Flechsig and his team of fly fishing guides at Mad River Outfitters. On this channel you will find honest fly fishing education, fly fishing tutorials and product reviews. We’re passionate about fly fishing and that’s what we hope to share here. More information about who we are can be found on our website ( and also on our Instagram (@madriveroutfitters).
how to tie the nail knot
Brian Flechsig from Mad River Outfitters and the Midwest Fly Fishing Schools shows you how to tie a Nailless Nail Knot to fix the broken factory loop on your fly line. This method can be used to add a loop to ANY fly line or sink tip that doesn’t have a loop.
We’ve had alot of requests for this one a glad to finally get around to it.
Here is the chart for mathching stiffness and diameter of Maxima Clear with your fly line:
2wt-3wt- .013″ 12lb
4wt- .015″ 15lb
5wt-6wt- .017″ 20lb
7wt- .019″ 25lb
8wt-9wt- .022″ 30lb
10wt- .024″ 40lb
11wt-12wt- .026″ 50lb (Rio Saltwater)
* These may differ a bit depending on the manufacturer/taper/diameter of your line
Thanks for watching!
~
Subscribe for more fly fishing content:
Support the channel, pick something up from our shop:
Have a question about this video or anything fly fishing? We’re happy to help!
Send Mad River Outfitters an email or give us a call:
Email: admin@madriveroutfitters.com
Phone: 614-451-0363
Welcome to Mad River Outfitters, hosted by professional fly fishing guide, Brian Flechsig and his team of fly fishing guides at Mad River Outfitters. On this channel you will find honest fly fishing education, fly fishing tutorials and product reviews. We’re passionate about fly fishing and that’s what we hope to share here. More information about who we are can be found on our website ( and also on our Instagram (@madriveroutfitters).
25 Comments
Thank you so much for this video, you really solved my problem cause my first fly fishing set flyline does not have loops.
I've never had lines with loops but you've convinced me that when I do, I'll just be cutting them off and attaching my lines with a blood knot like always have.
Could you add a sink tip to the fly line using this method?
A question for all us cheapskates. Could you just use the butt section of an old leader that has the right diameter? Especially if you were on the river and didn’t have anything with you. Could even keep the perfection loop that’s already on the leader if you wanted to.
Why you make this part so short? I think I do it too long maybe. I take underarm length at least usually. I think this transfers the energy better from the thicker part towards the thinner actual leader at the end.
Am I totally mistaken here ?
Wish we had a tackle shop like yourselves over in Warrington, England. I'd never leave 🤣
Lathers wire is wire lathers use to tie h channel together making a soffit in commercial buildings such as hospitals but it’s not used much any more
My dad was a lather
Great tutorial
Thanks for your presentation. I still have one question: how one could avoid the braid core of the line to behave like a water wick and so convert the floating line into a thinking one? Is it possible to seal the fishing line end?
I’m missing something.
Thanks for the vid, a while back I was struggling with presentation on one of my dry lines, tried a micro loop which didn't really sort it, that transfer through the doubled over kills the delicacy! I wound up doing very much the same, except I used the back section of a salwater tapered leader and ran about three feet of that post the nail knot then but tie on leader and tippets. so much cleaner! thanks for outlining the process you use.
Do you also remove the the factory welded loop on sinking lines ?
What mono do i use for a 10 weight carron spey mid belly?
I've just had another thought…
What about using a snell to whip a furled leader directly to the line? Or would you recommend snelling mono first?
Thank you so much for this. There was a time when my grandpa's best friend was one of my older brother in laws and he taught me that you don't want a big knot at the end of your fly line or coming off the mono before your leader because it would spook the fish. I live in Cherokee NC and have seen tourists spook trout in different ways and a lot has to do with their line and presentations. Love your videos and still love to learn. God bless y'all, Tony
That's better than the welded loop anyway! The only time I actually use the welded loop is on spey and switch lines where the head attaches to the welded loop on the running line. This method doesn't work in that application because it creates a weak spot that breaks down your loop in the cast. As always another great video!
Is his set-up better than a loop made with hollow braided mono?
Thanks the great video. Can I use Amnesia 20lb to build this and make the perfection loop extension for my 5wt fly line? I'm going to build the leaders your suggest on your "Build Perfect Nymph & Streamer Leaders" and it starts with 20lb Amnesia so I guessing I can? I would like to create the loop so that I can easily switch to the streamer leader that you suggest on that same video.
Every video I think it can't get any better, im always wrong in that thought.. You're a treasure trove of knowledge for all of fly fishing.
Said it once before, im sure it won't be the last. Thank you!
Didn't seal the tips of my lines. Need to do it right now before I forget.
I'm confused. So if you use smaller leader material for a 4 wt than how do you start a leader with a formula higher than that? Dosent that disobey the law of energy transfer? Also if you do use a heavier say .019 for leader material than how do you properly tie this knot? Maybe I'm overthinking it.
I have recently subscribed to you channel and finding a lot of great tips. I not a big fan of using the tool to make these knots I am glade I found this video. I needed to replace some loops on some of fly lines and this is so much better!! Thanks
Hi Brian, I'm not a flyfishing angler but love the videos anyway. One question please, wont connecting the leader via loop to loop (after doing what it shows in the video) mean that you're connecting mono to mono, creating a cutting connection as the monos pull against each other when fighting a fish? To clarify, in watching one of your other excellent tutorials, connecting a leader to a flyline via loop to loop connection, you say to go 'line through leader' rather than 'leader through line' as the latter creates a cutting action. I feel this might have the same outcome, am I incorrect?
Would you consider tying the leader direct to the fly line using the nail knot if you had a fly rig dedicated to fishing a single species such as carp on still water?
Thanks for the video
Interesting. Would this be useful from smaller weight forward setups; 4 wt or 5 wt?
Great tutorial! This is precisely the method I use.
Several years ago I treated myself to a really nice rig from a company that was once a reseller of really nice gear, but they are more into clothes now. That rig was the first fly line I ever had in over 40 years with the welded loop. I thought it was great until the line sheathing cracked at the hinge point at the end of the double line for the loop. I complained to the company at the store where I bought the rig, only to be told by a very young (“green”?) clerk that my cast was defective. (I’m pretty sure I was casting tight loops before he was born.)
I went home, cut the looped end and nail-knotted the but end of a tapered leader to my line as I had done for years. Now, given a choice, I will NOT buy a factory welded loop end line. I prefer the tried and true.
Thanks for putting it out there!